Mindfulness is usually described as an inward-looking process of stopping, reflecting and clearing the mind in learning a discipline of meditation or Zen awareness. Among the hustle and bustle of life, moments of stillness can help us to regain a sense of self, of composure or centring. Mindfulness has also been used widely to combat anxiety and depression. Surfing as mindfulness, however, does something a little different. It does not simply take us inside ourselves to find a still centre, but rather positions us within the environment to find place.

We are immersed in water and the movement of waves. We are active, alert and intent on balance. Mindfulness and surfing is then, paradoxically, a moving out of mind into the world, moving against the grain of inner-directed thought and reflection into an acute sense of what the environment demands of us. In this sense, we have the opportunity to develop a ‘body-mindfulness’, locating ourselves in space and place, and the bigger body of the environment.

For over two thousand years, the Western world has perfected techniques of focus on the self and the inward life. This has, arguably, dried up our receptivity to the outer world as we become acutely sensitive to the inner life. As a result, many argue that we have an egological (self-centred) surplus and an ecological (environmental) crisis. We need to recover sensitivity towards the world around us – its cries and pleasures, its sufferings and beauties. Surfing is an ideal way to do this as a mindfulness given by nature. And the soul of surfing is to be mindful of nature’s body as we cultivate a ‘body-mind’. This idea of ‘body-mindfulness’ is about placing ourselves into the bigger body of the wider community and the planet we share, and being more ecology-centred than self-centred.

This idea of ‘body-mindfulness’ is about placing ourselves into the bigger body of the wider community and the planet we share, and being more ecology-centred than self-centred.

As we learn to surf we will probably spend far more time spilled into the water than standing on our board riding a wave, with wind and spray in our face, and so the apprenticeship can be tough. But as we gain expertise so we will gradually gain a more graceful, elegant and inventive approach to how you relate to waves – in other words, we will develop a ‘body-mindfulness’ in the water.

The late, great psychologist James Gibson (1904–79) revolutionised the way we think about perception – the way we experience the world through our senses. In Gibson’s view, the world is not passively received by the senses and then processed cognitively via the brain and central nervous system – this is an inside-out perspective. Rather, the world actively educates our attention to its shapes, patterns, motions, colours, smells, tastes, vibrations and rhythms. The world captures our attention, shaping and dictating what and how we sense.

Further, the senses do not act independently but in concert together, shaped by what Gibson described as ‘environmental affordances’. These are patterns of attraction that draw us to them and make us notice. There’s a danger that you can become oblivious to your environment. You become dull to the world, anesthetised. The point is to become aestheticised, to use your senses, to notice things. Gibson’s model of ‘ecological perception’ celebrates both experiencing the world through the senses and being inspired to care for the environment.

‘Noticing’ and ‘sensing’ are definitely big elements of riding waves. Surfing brings you face to face with the raw beauty of nature at different volumes and tones, and in this setting there is the opportunity to be mindful, not by moving inwards to the self but by adapting to what the environment affords. The world of waves places the surfer into a mindfulness relationship with the environment as an ecological rather than egological activity. As we are taught and shaped by the waves, so we become more ecologically minded and sensitive. As expertise develops, surfers become connoisseurs of waves, tutored and formed by them. And as our elegance, determination, skill and courage grows, so we become more environmentally aware as a form of ‘external’ mindfulness. This is ‘body-mindfulness’ in action.

In summary, surfing helps us learn how the minds of people do not need to be tuned to their own needs and purposes as much as to the needs and purposes of the environments in which we live, for it is these environments that sustain us. Caring for our blue and green spaces is an essential part of this. And surfing is a great vehicle for getting us right into the heart of nature so it can teach us how to care, and above all, how to be body-mindful.

The post Body-mindfulness and surfing appeared first on The Wave.

The electric surfing 14-year-old goofyfooter Siyanda Hewitt is a rising talent in British waveriding and the newest member of The Wave ambassadors’ team. The power of the ocean runs deep through Siyanda’s family. His name is pronounced ‘Sea-anda’ and his parents Tom and Bulelwa are founders of the groundbreaking charities Surfers Not Street Children (and Umthombo Street Children) that use the power of surfing as a rehabilitation therapy to give kids from troubled backgrounds in South Africa and Mozambique a brighter future. British born Tom has been awarded an MBE for his trailblazing work, and the family are now based in the UK.

Siyanda is true a citizen of the world, raised in the sizzling waves of South Africa and Mozambique, and now a regular at the reefs and beaches of North Devon. The Wave caught up with Siyanda to find out more.

Tell us about the local scene where you surf?

We surf mostly at Croyde. It’s a really good wave, and I surf a lot with close friends Ziggy and Dylan Robinson and Noah Spooner. We all push each other, which makes it really exciting to surf together. It means a lot to me to have a good crew to surf with. I always had that growing up with the Surfers Not Street Children crew in Durban, and being part of a surf community that is strong and supportive is really cool. Me and Dad have also been getting up the coast in the winter to explore, and loving it.

How does surfing in the UK compare to growing up in South Africa?

It’s obviously colder and sometimes greyer here, but I’m so impressed with the quality of the waves in the UK. It’s so wave rich with all the limestone reefs and low-tide beaches. Probably over-all the waves are better and more consistent in South Africa, but I think the lifestyle is better here. Also, I think the schools are better. I’m at Braunton Academy and I really love Geography because you learn about the coastline, the weather and communities. In South Africa schools are really strict. That’s good for discipline, but it can be a stressful way to learn. Whereas here they are a lot more relaxed, which can be worse for discipline, but it definitely makes it a more enjoyable environment to learn in.

What special experiences and feelings does surfing give you that separates it from other activities?

Surfing is all about excitement. That’s what is so special about it – the unpredictability and not knowing what’s coming next as you paddle into the next set wave. And the more you go for it, the better surfing gets. Waves are never the same twice, and that’s what I love so much. With skating or biking you kind of know what’s coming because the park or the course stays exactly the same. But when surfing, every part of every wave is always changing, and you’ve got to work with that, react and make the most out of it. That’s the real rush of surfing, and the better quality the waves, the better the rush.

How did you find surfing at The Wave in Bristol?

Incredible. So stoked. It’s really great being in all the good energy there. Everyone is cheering each ride, and everyone is frothing to do something better each wave. It’s such a good place to surf with friends and push yourself harder and harder. Just the whole environment makes a really positive vibe. You really notice that no one is bringing the feeling of localism or bad energy that you can get at some breaks. I also think it’s so cool the way you can skate to the site from the parking area (as long as it’s not raining!). The whole lead up to arriving gets you so amped. It was good how they thought about this when they designed it.

Who are your surfing role models?

Brazilian Gabriel Medina is just so quick and efficient through every air and radical turn, so I get a lot of inspiration watching him in contests and through his video clips online. I also really like Australian Stephanie Gilmore. Her style is so pure and graceful and smooth, and the way she changes her feet position between turns is really interesting to watch. I got to hang out and surf with her in Mozambique when she was filming The Electric Acid Surfboard Test with Ashton Goggans and a crew from Stab magazine. She also visited the Surfers Not Street Children project there with me and Dad, which was cool. Mikey February is bringing a lot of positive vibes to South African surfing, which is really important as life can be really tough there for so many people. And Mikey’s style is really nice and effortless.

Tell us about your surfboards and some of the sponsors you’re now working with.

I’m pretty tall so I usually ride 6’2”s shaped by a really awesome Italian called Fabio Giacomini from Pike Surf. He has been shaping since 1980 and is based in South Africa and has done a lot of work with famous South African surfboard brands like Hurricane and Spider and Sawyer. Fabio is really great to work with. I also now have support from O’Neill, Dryrobe and The Foam Life, which I’m really stoked about.

Did you enjoy surfing’s Olympic debut?

It was really cool, apart from I missed the finals because I was surfing at The Wave, but watched them on replay. I think it was actually good to be in the ocean for the first ever time in the Olympics. The fact you don’t know what’s going to happen on each wave made it a real interesting contest, where paddling, reading the line-up, and form on the day was so important. In those situations, if you’re on a good run, you can go all the way to the finals. And I’ve been loving watching a lot of the other sports in the Olympics. It really gets you fired up to train hard with what you do and put the hours in. It’s amazing that Teahupo’o will be the surf spot for the Paris Olympics in 2024.

What are your surfing aims over the next few years?

I’m planning to enjoy more contests, here in the UK and hopefully over in South Africa at the Ballito Pro in Willard Beach up the coast from Durban. But I also really want to get back to freesurfing in Mozambique because it’s such a stunning coastline with incredible waves and we’ve been doing work there with Surfers Not Street Children.

Here in the UK I’ve actually been doing a lot of fitness training with Dad, which is helping so much with my surfing. But you do experience a lot of pressure when competing, so I really appreciate the stoke of freesurfing when you can joke around with friends and not have to be too serious. I really want to be a progressive freesurfer, and that can be really important when working with sponsors to standout alongside doing well in competitions. I also realise how lucky I am to have these surfing opportunities with sponsors and the chance to travel. I grew up at the Surfers Not Street Children project in Durban, so all the kids there became my close friends. Some of them have gone through a lot of really difficult times, especially lately, with the pandemic, with poverty and being forced into directions that don’t want to go. That experience has given me a lot of strength and resilience, and also awareness of how amazing the Surfers Not Street Children project is and why we do it. So for sure one of my big ambitions is to continue to promote this work with my family and be central to all the great things it can achieve.

The post Siyanda Hewitt appeared first on The Wave.

One of the biggest ways to tackle the climate crisis can come from cutting our own carbon emissions: flying less and driving less, eating less meat and wasting less food, switching to renewable energy and insulating our homes and buildings. But what are the links between surfing and the climate crisis?

To find out more we caught up with Belinda Baggs in Australia and Dan Crockett in Cornwall. Belinda is a lifelong waterwoman, a mother and longboarding trailblazer, her noseriding grace inspiring surfers around the planet.

She is a long-time ambassador for Patagonia and has recently launched the action group Surfers For Climate www.surfersforclimate.org.au. Dan Crockett is a writer, super stylish freesurfer and development director at the Blue Marine Foundation www.bluemarinefoundation.com currently leading the campaign to create national marine parks around the British seas, and focusing on the field of blue carbon that highlights the intrinsic relationship between the oceans and the climate.

We’d love to hear about your working and surfing routine at the moment?

Belinda Baggs:

Climate is the long-term pattern of weather in a place over many years, which could explain why the odds of scoring the fabled Australian points are best between February and May. Whilst weather can significantly change in a few hours and across seasons, climate is the tracked observation over decades. Global climate systems are highly complex, consisting of the atmosphere, oceans, snow and ice, land and the biosphere. The delicate interactions between these distributing heat across the planet determines weather systems that bring us winds, swell, rainfall and extreme weather. Even the slightest rise in temperatures can throw our global climate system out of balance and have a catastrophic impact on our lives.

Dan Crockett:

I work from an acre of woodland outside St Agnes, where I have a cabin to work off-grid. We’ve been regenerating the biodiversity of the area, so it’s a fantastic place to be based, although the bird song can be intense at times! I have a young family and tend to surf in the mornings or evenings around work, unless it’s exceptionally good. I surf to learn from and connect with things that aren’t human, so mostly surf alone, and find myself bodysurfing and freediving more. I like the simplicity of those activities and the lack of expectation regarding the conditions. It’s really neat to work in marine conservation and spend so much time in and around the sea, because it all feeds into what I’m doing, like seeing first-hand the health (or lack of it) of our kelp forests, seagrass beds and marine habitats, and taking action to regenerate these environments.

How would describe the role the climate plays in our lives?

Belinda Baggs:

Climate is the long-term pattern of weather in a place over many years, which could explain why the odds of scoring the fabled Australian points are best between February and May. Whilst weather can significantly change in a few hours and across seasons, climate is the tracked observation over decades. Global climate systems are highly complex, consisting of the atmosphere, oceans, snow and ice, land and the biosphere. The delicate interactions between these distributing heat across the planet determines weather systems that bring us winds, swell, rainfall and extreme weather. Even the slightest rise in temperatures can throw our global climate system out of balance and have a catastrophic impact on our lives.

Dan Crockett:

The climate includes all of the natural things and process that are both seen and unseen that support our planet. Because a lot of this is invisible it’s a hard concept to grasp, and it’s very easy to live in a way that is quite disconnected from the needs of the climate. Also, it’s so big in scale that it’s easy to disengage with things like the vast expanse of the ocean and the crucial role it plays. A big part of my work is joining up the roles of the ocean and the climate in people’s minds, because stopping the loss of biodiversity is so connected to this.

How would you describe the climate crisis?

Belinda Baggs:

Global warming is the long-term heating of the earth’s climate system. Whilst it’s true the climate has always been changing, since the start of the industrial period the temperatures have been rising at a more rapid rate than ever before due to greenhouse gases being trapped in the earth’s atmosphere. This has been caused by humans burning fossil fuels and by destroying our wild landscapes that help trap and regulate those same gasses. Whilst all this science can start to sound boring, we need to remember this is the very reason we have waves to ride, oceans to swim in, water to drink and air to breath.

Dan Crockett:

The amount of carbon we emit in our daily lives through things like travel, energy, food and industry heavily impacts on these systems and processes. The big tragedy is so much of this is caused by the industrialised West and felt more intensely elsewhere in the world. If you really get into the data the indicators are so concerning. Basically all the habitats that store carbon – such as mangroves, saltmarshes, seagrasses, kelp and forests – are in serious decline as they have been reduced rapidly by things like over development and over-fishing. And the ocean is the biggest carbon sink on the planet. It has a critical role in heat exchange keeping the earth cooler. A more unhealthy ocean makes a more unhealthy planet.

As a surfer, when did you first become acutely aware of the climate crisis?

Belinda Baggs:

When my son was a baby between 2011 and 2015 I was doing a lot of extra reading. The climate change predictions were clearly terrifying, yet no one was really making the changes required. I see my most important role as a parent to ensure that my son has a safe and flourishing future. Climate change threatens that. The actions we are taking on a global level simply aren’t good enough. Sadly, this is impacting cultures that have contributed least to the problem. A few years ago I visited the Solomon Islands, where due to sea-level rise, ghost trees are the only remains of large areas that used to be land. And here in Australia we are seeing more erosion than ever before. If we look beyond the beach and at the science, the list of scary scenarios continue to unfold, including bush fires, extreme weather events like cyclones, typhoons, and even cold polar plunges. Lessening rainfall and more intense heatwaves also put our food sources at risk.

Dan Crockett:

Ten years ago I was living and working in London and escaping the city on solo trips to the remote edge of Britain and Ireland. On a trip to the outer Orkney Islands surfing and diving I was bowled over by the extraordinary marine biodiversity. It really made me aware of the lack of abundance in marine diversity in Cornwall. In contrast the outer Orkney Islands felt like a much healthier ocean ecosystem. This triggered my interest in marine conservation and the role that marine habitats have in climate change. Over time I realised how tricky the issue was, due to the way we tend to silo all of these different topics that are actually all interconnected. I also quickly became aware of the role the ocean could play as a solution to the climate crisis.

What have you been inspired to do as a surfer to campaign for raising awareness about the climate crisis?

Belinda Baggs:

The solution is so simple: stop burning fossil fuels and re-wild the planet. The technology to do this already exists. The economics are now leaning towards a renewable future and the only blockers left are stubborn old politics and refusal by big businesses to change. With a few mates (including Johnny Abegg) we started Surfers For Climate to welcome people of all abilities, and from different backgrounds and identities, to take action. We believe if you ride a board, you are a surfer. Once you catch that first green wave, or spend a magical moment in the sea, that connection and appreciation lasts forever. We care and we can be the change. Collectively there are millions of us waveriders across the globe. United our actions and voices are strong.

Dan Crockett:

A lot of my work is focused on targeted interventions to try and improve ocean health, which can be severely impacted by overfishing and potentially things like deep sea mining. I campaign to get governments to be responsible using a blend of investigatory, legal and media approaches. It’s an all-consuming passion working across dozens of different fields, finding solutions to challenges faced by the ocean and finding the funding to make these campaigns happen. Recently we have established a vision for developing National Marine Parks in the seas around Britain. These could celebrate our biodiversity and heritage, improve public understanding and communicate the value of our coast and sea. They could also improve stewardship by uniting communities to engage with and sustainably manage their local marine area. My major focus is blue carbon though and properly recognising the value of the ocean to a stable climate.

What aspects of surfing and the surfing industry have the biggest negative impacts on our climate?

Belinda Baggs:

Our equipment and the travel required to ride waves is the largest footprint. By just car-pooling and surfing local, we can cut our emissions drastically. Conventional surfboards and wetsuits are toxic. Luckily more sustainable options exist. Choosing yulex rubber, a more sustainably constructed surfboard, or even just simply fixing dings and repairing holes to get the most out of our gear, all makes a difference. Beyond surfing we must consider our everyday emissions. Food is a huge emitter and can be bettered by eating local and minimising meat, fish and dairy consumption. Choose green power or install rooftop solar, listen and learn from indigenous knowledge and connection to country, and always vote for leaders who care for the environment and climate. Surfers For Climate has a guide on wiping out our emissions https://surfersforclimate.org.au/wipeout-your-emissions

Dan Crockett:

Surf culture has a bit of a problem because everything seems to be orientated around the person doing the surfing and others watching the show, often ignoring the environment people are surfing in. So I would love to see more activism within surfing and more appreciation and understanding of the joy of surfing being linked to the need for ocean activism. There are a lot of paradoxes in surfing, such as toxic surfboard materials and neoprene wetsuits, but also progress, such as hard-hitting environmental campaigns that are making real change. But we really need more of this.

Travel plays a big role in the surf industry. How can we better align the role of surf travel with the needs of the climate?

Belinda Baggs:

I am hugely guilty of racking up thousands of miles during my surfing life. Surf travel is a part of surfing that evokes adventure, so giving it up can be difficult. Nowadays I’m more aware of the impacts travel has on global warming. When I’m at home I’m more mindful to surf local. We have all been in a situation where we check the spot we think will be best, drive around for another two hours looking at a handful of other spots, only to return to the first place we started. If there’s a wave in front of me, I surf it. I try and ride my bike to the beach when possible, or if going an extra few miles, go with mates and car-pool. It’s inevitable that eventually I have to get on a plane, so I always make sure to offset with Sea Trees who plant mangroves to sequester the carbon we have emitted and restore ecosystems https://sea-trees.org

Dan Crockett:

The Covid pandemic has shown people that if we do need to make change, we can, and we can do it fast. It’s amazing what we can achieve when we’re forced to. It would be a shame if we go back to business as usual. We need to act more sustainably. Of course surf travel is enriching and educational and it has value and it opens our minds and supports communities. That’s very important, but surf travel can also be environmentally damaging, so we have to balance out our impacts. Ultimately decarbonisation of the travel industry, the energy industry and the surf industry will be very beneficial. And there are choices we can make to support this every day. Young people are really waking up the climate crisis, and that’s powerful because they genuinely care. I have a lot of faith in the youth. Of course I’m also impressed by the activist groups and I’d love to see a greater level of philanthropic support going to these organisations.

What can we do as surfers to help protect and sustain our climate?

Belinda Baggs:

Stand up for the protection of our waters. As surfers, we see environmental degradation first hand. So when a development threatens the places we love, fight for them. Just last year here in Australia our southern coastline was threatened by proposed oil drilling in the Great Australian Bight. This united tens of thousands of surfers across the country to write to MP’s, rally their local council in opposition, and turn up to protest. With our friends help in Norway the project was withdrawn. The same is happening again near Sydney with a proposal to drill for gas.

The effects of global warming are drastically impacting the earth’s climate systems causing major changes to our weather. Large storm events are creating bigger swells and these are literally moving the bottom contour of our reefs and beaches. This doubled with sea level rise is creating more erosion along our coastlines. At the same time, ocean heatwaves are wiping out kelp forests (a major sequester of carbon) and bleaching coral reefs. These same reefs and the animal inhabitants are also experiencing ocean acidification that disintegrates their exoskeletons. This is occurring on The Great Barrier Reef as well as many of our favourite and prized waves closer to the equator. Imagine no more Fijian walls or Indo barrels?

Surfing now attracts people from all walks of life. We are no longer outcasts sleeping on our mates couches. We make real money. We can make real change. One of the quickest ways to create change is to invest our hard earned cash in institutions that invest in renewable energy. And as lovers of the ocean it’s our responsibility to protect it.

Dan Crockett:

We have limited understanding about the role that the deep sea plays and it’s very important that we understand this better before we commit to any deep sea mining because the potential to mitigate the effects of climate change by leaving the seafloor undisturbed is huge. A better understanding of the challenges we are facing is really important. Things like acidification and eutrophication are complicated. Ocean acidification is the ongoing decrease in the pH in our oceans, caused by the uptake of carbon dioxide from the atmosphere, usually caused by the burning of fossil fuels. Eutrophication is a process that encourages the growth of algae, preventing sunlight reaching water plants and animals and damaging environments. The more we educate ourselves the more we can shape decisions in terms of our daily lives.

Campaigning really helps drive education as well. Standing up and being heard is crucial. The Seaspiracy film has prompted a backlash, but it has raised awareness about the impacts of overfishing and the human rights abuses in the fishing industry. This drives the desire for a better understand of the issues and more accurate science. We cannot underestimate the power of movements like Extinction Rebellion. I’m also really impressed by Engine No.1 who are an activist head hedge fund trying to drive positive environmental and community change from within the financial system. And I’m encouraged by the Biden administration in the US being on the front foot for the environment, through John Kerry, and I hope other nations will build on that momentum. More surfer politicians would be a good thing!

Surfing is a big joy in our daily lives and we want to maintain that, so it’s super important for surfers to rise up as an activist force. Historically surfing has been on the fringes, with a rich activist history. We should now channel this into supporting the environment that gives us so much. A minister recently said to me that us ocean people are too nice, we should demand change. We should never underestimate the power of the people.

The post Climate Surfers appeared first on The Wave.

When surfing, our object of contemplation and medium for mindfulness is the roiling, unfurling wave energy forming unique troughs and crests that we ride. Surfing is an act of making best use of the wave’s shape, speed and character to carve out a remarkable experience. It is one of the purest thrills anyone can enjoy, and one of the best ways to feel close to the natural world. Tense and uncertain when you first learn, as you gain confidence surfing becomes elastic. Riding waves then becomes an act of letting go, adapting and reacting.

There is a strange kind of intimacy that develops with water as you improve your skills through practice. A surfing session can be a mindful cycle of action, recovery and contemplation, wrapped in wonder. These experiences will stimulate an abundant release of serotonin, oxytocin and dopamine levels in the body. This is all wonderful stuff for feeling in tune with the world, and for getting inside its folds, under its ripples, and to the beating heart of its mysteries. The ‘stoke’ – as we describe it – is often talked about as ‘only surfers know the feeling’. Stoke is an intense sense of satisfaction at whatever level of ability – and it’s a given form of mindfulness, a ‘blue mindfulness’

Contrary to what most people may think of as a mindfulness that goes inward, surfing teaches you a ‘blue mindfulness’ that is an emptying out to achieve identification with the ever-changing wave. This involves both ‘vigilant attention’ and ‘paradoxical attention’. While you inhabit the very moment as vigilant attention, you also take in so much more as paradoxical attention, such as the colour and smell of the water and the air, as a background. As the wave approaches and unfurls, you takeoff, turn the board and ride the energy of the wave – you are using both vigilant and paradoxical attention, with blue mindfulness at the beating heart!

Once up-and-riding, the beauty of surfing is how it connects three moving surfaces – the wave, the board and the soles of your feet (if you ride standing) or your body if you ride prone. Think about it. You only have a small surface area of your body in contact with a moving board in contact with a moving wave as part of moving water. All that water energy is transmitted to your board and then up through the soles of your feet and you adjust downwards against this set of forces. There are 200,000 nerve endings in the soles of your feet that are constantly being massaged by this moving surface. Here, mindfulness is about the interaction of skin, planning surface and unfolding wave. Once aware of this, surfing can then become an appreciation of how body, board and wave energy are interwoven. And with this attention to connection, the wave’s calling will be stronger than ever as you enjoy every ride.

Of course surfing’s rinse of the senses is not always easy as you learn from the wipeout. Yet wipeouts are a part of surfing to be embraced. They strip away the ego and build character. They offer a learning experience, and should be celebrated not as mistakes, but part of the rollercoaster of waveriding. And then the coin flips and there is surfing cleanly from takeoff to kickout, where the channel kisses you on arrival; or slotting into your first tuberide as the wave reveals its secrets.

Surfing as ‘blue mindfulness’ is then a letting go in order that the environment can grab you, shape you, and test you out. This environment is not just the breaking wave, but the surfboard you ride, those fellow surfers you share space with, and the surrounding places, people and weather patterns circling above. But above all, surfing as ‘blue mindfulness’ is a love affair with water.

The post Surfing as “Blue Mindfulness” appeared first on The Wave.

First and foremost some principles

Safety is our number one focus at all times.

We are building a destination and business that is sustainable for the long term. We want to create a firm bedrock from which we can grow and deliver an incredible experience.

This is a world first and with that comes some challenges. We are learning everything for the first time and while some of the parts that make up The Wave have been done before in different guises, this is a totally unique combination of experiences.

This is also a world first for our technology partners, Wavegarden. This is their first full-scale version which is commercially open. They too are learning how to optimise this incredible feat of engineering.

Our waves

Wavegarden spent many weeks commissioning our waves and there is an incredible variety of waves available for us to use, both now and into the future.

We have settled on a ‘shortlist’ of 18 wave types, which we can produce at the push of a button, from the most gentle beginner waves, right up to some really hefty, barrelling waves. I’ve seen them all and they are truly amazing. The next steps to get these waves ready for public use is to first make sure each one has been properly tested and risk assessed. That is not as simple as it might sound because the bigger waves create currents in other areas that we want to understand fully before putting users in the water. All our waves our safe, we just want to 100% understand the fluid dynamics. This is new to us all and hence why we have been clear about this being our ‘warm up phase’.

We have opened our first weeks with a wave setting that we hoped would deliver all the above and see us through the initial warm-up phase. This hasn’t quite worked out as planned.

Here is why:

The advanced wave

Currently we have the advanced setting programmed to deliver a friendly wave much like a fun sandbar that starts off shoulder high on take off and then transforms into a crouching barrelling/faster inside section.

If I had to describe the sort of surfer that these waves are suited to I’d say:

You need to have been surfing consistently over the last 12 months, ideally at least 2-3 times a month and have been surfing for at least 3-5 years minimum. You should be a strong swimmer, strong paddler and when you go surfing you catch way more waves than you miss. You should be able to control a take off well and be able to slide into a gentle turn both left and right. You don’t necessarily need to be able to turn just yet, just control your speed.

We have chosen a wave which is easy to take off on, with a gentle first section which winds up speed into a faster and small barrelling second section. This wave is so much fun and a great starting point for surfers who have never surfed a reef before. During the session the wave grows in height and becomes a little bigger and faster. We have had hundreds of people feedback that it’s great fun and great for improving fitness. Some felt that they would probably ride it a few times and then would like something ‘next level up’.

We have however also had surfers book into this session who are clearly not ready for this wave yet. They are struggling consistently with the take off and consequently wiping out too much and not getting the most out of the session. They are still ‘intermediates’ rather than ‘advanced surfers’.

Too many times I’ve had surfers paddling out with me saying “I’ve not surfed for years”… that is always a tell-tale sign of a less than ideal session. Clearly these people need a refresher session before tackling this wave. They’re not a beginner – they probably got quite good but are now rusty – but this wave is not for them yet.

Because of this, we cannot be confident that pushing the even bigger waves for the advanced session is the right thing to do, just now. We will get there, but we’re slightly hampered by the need for a surfer to correctly judge their ability and select an area that’s right for them. We’re working through how best to handle this at the moment.

If you have been already, had fun, but are looking for the next level up… keep your eyes peeled as we will be looking to step it up in the near future. Sign up to the newsletter too so you don’t miss announcements. We’ll also be bringing in specific sessions for surfers who’ve got comfortable in our lake and want to start pushing themselves to a higher level. I would however advise people to try the current waves, so they can be sure they have it dialled before they look to tackle anything more advanced..

You will have seen footage of a number or pro surfers trying out the bigger and heavier waves. We haven’t done that to tease you. They have been helping us test and assess the more advanced wave settings, as part of the process that will allow us to introduce some of these waves. We wanted to share the images to show the potential of this amazing technology. It’s also worth noting that much of the footage we have put out is actually of the pros on our current wave setting – and they had a brilliant time!

Tips to help enjoy this wave:

– Make sure you are fit, there are a lot of waves in a session and a lot of paddling back out, even with our flowing channel.

– Nerves. Relax, breathe, we are all learning and you will never be judged in our lake. Keep smiling.

– You need a couple of extra paddling strokes as the take off is gentle, so make sure you are on the wave before popping up. You have loads of time for take off. Slow everything down…

– Listen to the lifeguards. They will give you clear instructions.

– Volume is always your friend… please do use our amazing Skindog surfboards, they have been specifically designed for this wave and even though they have a soft deck normally associated with a “beginner” board, these are epic performance boards for every ability.

How I like to ride this wave:

I like to start a wave with a smile, it helps me relax! I start about one metre from the sidewall and angled about 20 degrees towards the clubhouse. I always take a couple more strokes than normal, but really relaxed. The take off is mellow on this setting which allows me to haul my weight to my feet (I’m not the quickest these days but I’m working on that!). It does also allow the obligatory leash tangle to get sorted out.

If for some reason I miss the wave, I just take a few strokes away from the wall and angle a little more, the wave picks you up but still you have an easy take off.

The first section is soft and allows a slow swooping carve if you stay close to the power pocket of the wave. You then need to get some speed up with a quick pump or get your weight forwards to get around the faster section.

This is the fun bit of the wave as even on the smaller settings, you can tuck in, crouch down and get a sweet little barrel. If you maintain your speed you can get another 2-3 turns in before the wave energy dissipates.

It is then 100+ metre paddle back to the start and about 30 second wait before you go again!

The intermediate wave

We have a number of amazing waves for people who can stand up consistently on the white water on bigger boards, but want to get better.

We started with a fun wave, which we thought would work perfectly for this area. However, feedback from our first visitors is that it isn’t the experience they were hoping for. The last thing we want is for people to leave The Wave feeling disappointed and we do not want people to pay for an experience that doesn’t deliver. We have taken the big decision to remove this wave from our line up and instead run specific sessions purely for the intermediates and beginners using a different wave setting.

This wave will be a gentle green wave that breaks left and right on both sides of the lake. It is sooooo much fun and allows surfers to get used to trimming down the line on a green wave and practice gentle turns. You will need to paddle back to the beginning of the wave again and your fitness will improve rapidly.

We cannot simply introduce this session straight away, as we need to carry out our risk assess process and want to 100% understand how each wave setting performs across the lake .

We have a huge volume of bookings for advanced surfers and the advanced wave disappears on this setting (the wave is pushed over the first reef and works off the second reef). Therefore we will also have to restructure our booking platform and get surfers into the appropriate areas of the lake. This is a big piece of work. We need to rejig some bookings to get this work for everyone. We were anticipating some teething issues and this is probably the biggest we have experienced but ultimately it is totally fixable, but requires a lot of customer service work and will take some time.

The beginner Wave

The beginner waves are doing exactly what we hoped, our instructors are able to host the perfect sessions to get people who have never surfed before up and riding and the feedback has been overwhelmingly positive. The wave is a gentler white water wave with good push to get kids and adults surfing. It’s been great seeing so many new surfers enjoy our waves.

Finally…

As we have said many times, we are in our warm-up phase. Right now we want as much feedback as possible – that’s how we learn, tweak what we are doing in places and make sure we offer a first class experience for surfers of all abilities. We have met so many happy people who have tried our waves for the first time and absolutely loved it. We welcome anyone who wants to come and see what we have built and share in the joy this incredible space creates.

This is just the beginning…

The post Just the beginning… appeared first on The Wave.

We caught up with George Stoy, Founder of George’s Surf School, recently rated as one of the top 10 surf schools in the world, to get his top tips for surfing in the winter months.

Wetsuits do keep you warm

As the old saying goes, ‘There’s no such thing as bad weather, just unsuitable clothes’. Cold-water surfers know that getting a good-fitting wetsuit and the right kit is key. According to Stoy, development in wetsuit technology has been the single biggest game-changer in terms of year-round surfing.

‘The lining on winter wetsuits and their ability to reflect heat and insulate has come on in leaps and bounds over the past few years. At the same time they are more flexible, making it easier for you to move and keep warm.

‘With the right thickness wetsuit, surfing really is accessible all year round. Opt for a 5:3 suit with fleece lining and liquid sealed seams if possible. It is also really key to insulate your head and your extremities – so definitely wear a hood, gloves and boots for winter surfing sessions.’

Don’t get cold before you start

‘It seems pretty obvious, but it’s essential that you’re not cold before you get in the sea – heating up when you’re already chilled is difficult. Do your surf checks before you start getting changed and then aim to change quickly and efficiently.

‘I stand on a mat to keep my feet dry and warm, and keep a hat and coat on for as long as possible. Wind-proofing is important, so pull on everything under your coat or changing robe – wetsuit to waist, boots on and then at the last minute pull up your suit and put your hood on. Get the blood in your hands and if surfing with friends then help each other to pull your gloves on quickly. It’s worth remembering that you should avoid surfing alone, especially in winter. It’s not just safer, but more fun sharing a session with a buddy!

‘If you can get changed inside then that’s great – but don’t stay in the warm for too long or it will be a bigger shock when you go out. Once changed, get out quick!’

When water temperature is low, preparation is everything

One of Stoy’s golden rules is to be prepared.

‘Preparation, for both before and after a surf in winter months, is key. I have a changing bucket ready for my wetsuit and have my clothes piled on the passenger side of the car, in the order I will be putting them on. That means no scrambling around in the cold looking for socks and pants!

‘I tend to choose a spot where I can park fairly close to the surf, to avoid a long walk back when I finish. Wind chill factor means you will lose heat quickly, so you want to keep the time between getting out of the water and getting changed to a minimum.’

How to stay warm in cold water

Listen to your body. ‘Paddling and being active will keep you warm in the sea, but once you get tired and run out of energy then the cold will start to set in. It’s really important to listen to your body, especially in the colder months.

‘Be disciplined – it’s better to have a shorter session and get out before you feel the cold. By the time you’re chilled, it’s too late to do anything about it. Don’t get to the point when your hands or feet are numb as this makes everything difficult, from walking back to the car to trying to get the car keys in the lock.’

Get changed quickly and have a hot drink waiting

‘Once you’re out of the water then speed is of the essence. If you’ve done your prep in advance then getting changed should be quick. Take the top half of your wetsuit off and get a towelling robe on, with a coat over the top. Then boots off, wetsuit off and socks on as quickly as possible. I use ski socks in the winter, which are great for keeping toes toasty. If your hood isn’t integrated in your wetsuit, then keep it on until you’re completely changed.

‘Finally I always bring a flask of a hot drink with me in the winter. Great for warming you up and also makes for a sociable post-surf moment with fellow surfers.’

Cold water surfing is well worth the effort

Follow these tips and surfing is possible – and enjoyable – all year round in the UK, and, says Stoy, it is well worth it.

‘There’s definitely a bit of a badge of honour about surfing in the winter. I get a real thrill from my winter sessions – plus there are less people in the water and quieter line-ups mean more waves! It’s exhilarating to be out there doing something that many people wouldn’t even consider – even if, the truth be told, it really isn’t cold or uncomfortable any more!’

The post Cold water surfing – Can I surf all year round? appeared first on The Wave.

The increased water runoff from local towns can cause rubbish and all kinds of pollutants to pour into the sea after heavy rain or storms. Alongside this, coastal towns can get very busy during the summer months making sewage overflows more likely. This can lead to water contamination that causes a range of health risks, from bugs that cause diarrhoea and vomiting, to ear, nose and throat infections.

A Californian study of more than 600 surfers covering over 10,000 surfing sessions from 2013 to 2015 found surfing in the days after heavy rainfall raised the risk for a wide range of acute illnesses.

Many beaches in Britain have excellent water quality but storms, heavy rain or a sharp increase in the numbers using the beaches can still cause problems. The main rule is to avoid surfing in water when there’s the risk of sewage or other pollution.

Thanks to campaigning organisations like Surfers against Sewage, you can easily find clean surfing beaches in the UK. According to their latest research in 2018, 98.5% of the 625 designated bathing waters around the UK are classified as excellent, good, or sufficient.

Check out the Environment Agency’s bathing water profiles and weather updates on surfing sites such as Magic Seaweed and Surfline.

Top Tip:

As The Wave is an artificial lake, we don’t have these issues. We closely monitor water quality and you can surf every day, even if it rains.

Is it dangerous to swim in lightning?

Hanging out in large expanses of water can be risky when there’s lightning about. Even if the lightning is a few miles away, storms can move very quickly and the lightning can fire in all directions. It’s impossible to predict how close a strike might be and as a surfer you are likely to be the highest object on the water and at risk of being struck.

Top Tip:

At The Wave, if there’s lightning about we ask everyone to leave the water to ensure safety. If your session is cut short when you’ve been in for less than 45 minutes, we will give you a refund based on how long you were in the water.

As roofers, rain can sometimes stop work. We love surfing. For us The Wave will be the perfect place to come when it rains

John Advanced Surfer

The post Is surfing risky in the rain? appeared first on The Wave.