Surfing and literature

What the ‘physical pleasures’ of surfing and creative writing share in common is indulgence in the metaphor. A metaphor is a use of language that takes one notion across to another, bigger, more expansive notion to increase its quality, intensity and presence. The word ‘metaphor’ simply means ‘to transfer’ or ‘carry across’. “The wave was punchy” is a classic metaphor used by surfers around the world. Of course, the wave doesn’t literally ‘punch’, but figuratively speaking, of course it packs a punch. The literal idea of the punch is carried across to the breaking wave as a bigger, more complex idea – the punchy power of the folding water.  

“The glassy wave combed by a light offshore” is another classic surf metaphor. Of course, the wave isn’t literally made of glass, or literally ‘combed’ by the wind, but figuratively speaking, the wave looks like glass – transparent, shattering on impact; and the wind pulls through the wave like a comb so that spray raises like hair. The wave is figuratively hair-raising. Metaphors clearly bring depth, quality and intensity to otherwise plain speaking. In this sense, surfing is a metaphor for gliding. We ‘surf’ the internet because we glide around it with ease, with no apparent energy source. Good surfers glide on and around waves with such ease. To watch them is to view metaphors in action. They are more than motion – they are poetry in motion.   

When, in 1907, the writer Jack London spent his first tranche of royalties for his best-selling novel Call of the Wild on a boat trip to Hawaii, he stood on the beach at Waikiki and watched surfers riding from out back all the way onto the sand on heavy wooden boards. As a waterman himself, Jack immediately appreciated the beauty of surfing. But how did he describe the scene? “I saw a guy standing upright on a wooden board”? Nah. He writes: “He is Mercury – a Brown Mercury. His heels are winged, and in them is the swiftness of the sea.” The description is poetic, metaphorical: ‘winged heels’, ‘swiftness of the sea’. The surfer (George Freeth, who taught Jack to surf) takes on the qualities of the sea itself as it pushed relentlessly towards shore, rising as waves that break on the sand. The surfer is a messenger born of the sea and borne by it. The surfer is himself a wave, mercurial, swift-footed. Creative writers like Jack London crank up the metaphor count to breathe life into language.  

Agatha Christie was another great writer: “The surf boards in South Africa were made of light, thin wood, easy to carry, and one soon got the knack of coming in on the waves,” wrote Agatha Christie. “It was occasionally painful as you took a nosedive down into the sand, but on the whole it was an easy sport and great fun.” Ultimately she stood up, delighted: “Oh, it was heaven! Nothing like it. Nothing like that rushing through the water at what seemed to you a speed of about two hundred miles an hour; all the way in from the far distant raft, until you arrived, gently slowing down, on the beach, and foundered among the soft flowing waves.”  

Anne Beddingfeld, one of Agatha’s characters in the novel The Man in the Brown Suit, is described surfing in Cape Town: “Surfing looks perfectly easy. It isn’t. I say no more. I got very angry and fairly hurled my plank from me. Nevertheless, I determined to return on the first possible opportunity and have another go. I would not be beaten. Quite by mistake I then got a good run on my board, and came out delirious with happiness. Surfing is like that. You are either vigorously cursing or else you are idiotically pleased with yourself.” This may be the first time that the common nickname (a metaphor) ‘plank’ for a board had been used outside surfing circles. And Agatha brilliantly captures those dual experiences of surfing as both infuriating and rewarding. 

Agatha Christie’s most famous character Hercule Poirot was never reported hanging ten, nor did her other famous character Miss Marple wax up her plank, but Agatha’s success as a British crime writer (she sold over a billion copies of her 80 novels) was certainly injected with a little saltwater soul. She got the bug, and was likely Western Europe’s first female stand-up surfer. “Instinct is a marvellous thing. It can neither be explained nor ignored,” concluded Agatha in The Mysterious Affair at Styles. This would be a great description for the timeless allure of surfing. 

The post <strong>Agatha Christie Hits the Surf</strong>  appeared first on The Wave.

With the knowledge that hydraulic technology could produce ripples like the flow of waves in the ocean (this had already been achieved in a public swimming pool at Wembley, London in 1939), ‘Big Surf’ was opened in 1969, the USA’s first wave pool in landlocked Tempe, Arizona. The Beach Boys’ wish – to bring the Californian surf dream to landlocked middle America – was in progress. Other pools would follow globally, the beauty of this technology rests in the variety and frequency – expert tubes or beginner rollers at regular intervals. 

Nick Hounsfield founded The Wave in 2012 with sustainability at the heart and the aim to bring year-round consistent surfing and its’ benefits to a safe in-land environment for people of all ages, backgrounds, and abilities. So, what are the benefits of learning to surf in a wave pool? 

Truly accessible  

As huge supporters of the Adaptive or Para Surfing community, making surfing truly accessible for all was a key focus for The Wave from day one. A lot of thought was put in at design-stage to ensure the whole place was as physically accessible as possible – in fact members of Team England Adaptive were among the first to put The Wave through its paces when it opened its doors in 2019.  

One key benefit of a wave pool compared to the coast is that there is no sand – something that is a real difficulty and barrier to those in wheelchairs or with mobility issues. In addition, The Wave has been built for the most part all on one level to make it easier to navigate to get around, with a purpose-built lift to ensure that everyone can access and enjoy the terrace for long summer’s evenings and all year-round spectacular views. There are also ramps rather than stairs leading down into the lake, making it a smooth entry into the water. The Camp is also accessible for all, with adapted tents as well as ramp access.  

A safe, controlled environment  

A wave pool provides a unique, controlled surfing situation for everyone, from complete starter to advanced surfer. Learning to surf is of course a question of regular practice, but key to gaining confidence is getting to your feet, even briefly, on those very first waves without fear of collision, near drowning, being swept away in open water, or getting bawled at by some irate local. The thing about a so-called ‘artificial’ wave is that it is not artificial at all, it is just regulated.  

Beginners are helped by surf coaches who can stand by to give a helping hand without the many unforeseen events that can happen at crowded beaches. Surf lessons become more contained and focused, to benefit the learner.   

With the opportunity to surf waves knowing that nobody else will drop in on you, and that there will be consistency in the way that the wave breaks, all grades of surfers from intermediate to professional riders can experiment and push their performance levels. Pretty soon, you discover that the waves talk, and that the machine has a soul, and being here is one of the best outdoor experiences you can have. 

Consistent waves, after waves, after waves….

The excitement of catching your first wave is just as great as in the ocean, but the chances of success are greater in a wave pool, because a lot of the inconsistency and surprise of the ocean wave is ironed out in the controlled or engineered wave.  

There are different surf options to book, from a beginner surf lesson, to an expert surf session, with wave height ranging from 0.5 to 2 metres. The whole lake can cater to up to 80 users at a time, through pre-booked hour-long slots, with a maximum of 19 surfers in the bay area. Having set numbers per session means there is no overcrowding and there are enough waves for everyone. 

All the gear 

Beginners have the chance to enjoy a gentle and consistent wave, paired with a trusty buoyant foam beginner’s Softech board. All of the equipment is provided at The Wave, including surfboards, bodyboards, wetsuits and anything else you might need to prepare for your first surf. Just remember to bring your bathing suit and a towel and you’ll be ready to roll! 

A supportive community 

The 180m long lake is at its heart, but The Wave is not just about surfing. It’s about sharing incredible experiences with anyone who wants to enjoy them, in a naturally healthy space. It’s about the positive health and wellbeing benefits of being in or near water. And it’s about having a load of fun in the process!

One of the incredible benefits of learning to surf in a wave pool, is getting to know other like-minded individuals who love to surf, and to champion their progress whatever their level. At The Wave some incredible communities have blossomed, from Bodyboarding groups, to new friend groups. Events such as the women-only Sister Sessions have helped to encourage even more like-minded people to come and enjoy the waves together! 

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What is the secret to tuberiding?

The key to tuberiding is ‘shaping’. Shaping is central to surfing – boards are shaped by shapers and elegant surfing is all about adjusting to the contours of the wave. Shaping in tuberiding is about fitting the body and board to ride just behind the falling curtain. Tube rides never work out if you are slightly ahead of the curl. To the untrained eye, the surfer inside the tube is apparently ‘doing nothing’. But this laconic ‘doing nothing’ is precisely the aim, and despite appearances it is the result of a huge amount of practice, preparation, timing, experience and knowledge.

How to perfect your tuberiding skills

Here are some tips to help perfect the tuberide

– When you spot a tubing section ahead stay looking down the line at the potential exit. Set the correct line and set your course before the lip goes over your head.

– Stay low to the board, and if you need to slow down drag your trailing hand along the wave face or applyweight on your back leg. Most tuberides involve a stalling manoeuvre.

– All tubes have a different entry and exit, so reading the wave shape is key, but most entry doors into a tube require keeping the board trim line high up on the wave face to avoid the plunging lip wiping you out. Remember, as long as you can fit under the lip even by low crouching, tubes can be achieved even in small waves, especially where strong offshore winds prevail, and hold the wave up.

– Apply pressure to your toes andlift the board up the face. Commit to this motion so that the lip does not hit you. Hesitate and the lip will hit you before you enter the tube. Remember to compress your body as you travel up the face. 

– Now you are inside the tube. Time will stand still.

– Stay relaxed and breath.

– Bend your knees and stay in a crouched position. Keep your bum tucked in.

– Keep your eyes open, eyeing the exit down the line. Close your eyes and you will drop your head and shoulders and fall.

– As you travel through the tube there will be a constant upward flow of water. This means that in almost all tuberides you need to apply more pressure over your front foot to avoid getting sucked up and around inside of the green room.

– This pushing down with your front foot will stop the board from tracking up the face.

– Use your front foot to control your line of travel, making slight adjustments with your toe and heel to maintain stability.

– Weight and pressure transitions need to coincide with the wave. Feel the wave as you travel through the tube and adjust pressure to maintain your line of travel.

– Move your back foot forward and drop your back knee for tight tubes. Your back knee should drop enough to touch the deck.

– Responding to the speed of the wave, you can drag your trailing hand in the wave face to slow down, or apply more front foot pressure to speed up.

– In bigger tubes you may need to create speed in the barrel by compressing and extending. Extending helps lift the board up the face as you apply pressure to your toes. Compressing helps shift weight forward over the front foot for speed.

– Focus on the top part of the tube’s exit. By focusing on this spot, you get a better idea of how tall you are and how much space you have above you. This helps you avoid riding too low to your board. If the lip keeps hitting your head, apply downward pressure to move toward the wave’s trough.

– Typically, the higher the line you take, the faster you will travel.

– Keep your shoulders square and open towards the exit. This will help you move in the right direction.

– Point both hands toward the tube exit to direct your weight forward. At the same time, maintain your line with your back foot by keeping pressure on your toes. Anticipate if the barrel is going to hit a shallow section and continue opening up, or hit a channel and make the exit high and tight.

– Emerge on the shoulder, revived, and reignited for more.

– When you spot a tubing section ahead stay looking down the line at the potential exit. Set the correct line and set your course before the lip goes over your head.

– Stay low to the board, and if you need to slow down drag your trailing hand along the wave face or applyweight on your back leg. Most tuberides involve a stalling manoeuvre.

– All tubes have a different entry and exit, so reading the wave shape is key, but most entry doors into a tube require keeping the board trim line high up on the wave face to avoid the plunging lip wiping you out. Remember, as long as you can fit under the lip even by low crouching, tubes can be achieved even in small waves, especially where strong offshore winds prevail, and hold the wave up.

– Apply pressure to your toes andlift the board up the face. Commit to this motion so that the lip does not hit you. Hesitate and the lip will hit you before you enter the tube. Remember to compress your body as you travel up the face. 

– Now you are inside the tube. Time will stand still.

– Stay relaxed and breath.

– Bend your knees and stay in a crouched position. Keep your bum tucked in.

– Keep your eyes open, eyeing the exit down the line. Close your eyes and you will drop your head and shoulders and fall.

– As you travel through the tube there will be a constant upward flow of water. This means that in almost all tuberides you need to apply more pressure over your front foot to avoid getting sucked up and around inside of the green room.

– This pushing down with your front foot will stop the board from tracking up the face.

– Use your front foot to control your line of travel, making slight adjustments with your toe and heel to maintain stability.

– Weight and pressure transitions need to coincide with the wave. Feel the wave as you travel through the tube and adjust pressure to maintain your line of travel.

– Move your back foot forward and drop your back knee for tight tubes. Your back knee should drop enough to touch the deck.

– Responding to the speed of the wave, you can drag your trailing hand in the wave face to slow down, or apply more front foot pressure to speed up.

– In bigger tubes you may need to create speed in the barrel by compressing and extending. Extending helps lift the board up the face as you apply pressure to your toes. Compressing helps shift weight forward over the front foot for speed.

– Focus on the top part of the tube’s exit. By focusing on this spot, you get a better idea of how tall you are and how much space you have above you. This helps you avoid riding too low to your board. If the lip keeps hitting your head, apply downward pressure to move toward the wave’s trough.

– Typically, the higher the line you take, the faster you will travel.

– Keep your shoulders square and open towards the exit. This will help you move in the right direction.

– Point both hands toward the tube exit to direct your weight forward. At the same time, maintain your line with your back foot by keeping pressure on your toes. Anticipate if the barrel is going to hit a shallow section and continue opening up, or hit a channel and make the exit high and tight.

– Emerge on the shoulder, revived, and reignited for more.

lOOKING TO WORK ON YOUR BARRELS AND TUBERIDING, BOOK ONE OF OUR EXPERT WAVE SESSIONS HERE

The post The Tuberide – How to perfect your Tuberiding appeared first on The Wave.

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During the first flowering of Polynesian stand-up surf culture in the Hawaiian Islands from the fourth century until European colonialism in the eighteenth and nineteenth century, surfing was for everyone: girls, mothers, grandmothers, kings, queens and warriors. In a brilliant chapter called ‘The Abundant Roots of Women Surfing’ in her book She Surf, Lauren Hill explains that historians of Ancient Polynesia acknowledge that it was however female surfers who were celebrated most widely for their poise, grace and skill as waveriders. And the very word to describe this Polynesian art of surfing, ‘he’e nalu’, is a feminine word meaning ‘wave sliding’ and evoking that balanced and beautiful relationship between water, board and rider.

Sadly as Hawaiian surfing was both supressed by Christian missionaries, then popularised in the emerging tourism market as an activity for wealthy beach goers to consume, the female identity of surfing was overshadowed by a toxic culture of masculinity at the beaches where surfing gained momentum in the 1960s across the Pacific and the Atlantic. Thankfully this has changed considerably, and female surfing is now more vibrant and impactful than ever across many beach cultures around the world. But still in far too many surfing line-ups it remains rare to see women riding waves, and there is a huge need for girl surfers to learn and develop confidence amongst a dedicated group of ladies only, rather than amidst surf breaks over-crowded with men and behavioural barriers of intimidation and competitiveness.

fOUNDER OF wAVE wAHINES

It is into this context that Yvette Curtis founded the groundbreaking Waves Wahines in 2016 in North Devon with top British surfer Karma Worthington. Yvette explains how, “we created Wave Wahines when my eldest daughter wanted to surf more, but when we searched the local area we could not find something she was comfortable with. We tried to find a local surf club or school that could help her. But I struggled to find a club that wasn’t competitive, expensive and full of boys. She needed a group that had a more nurturing environment, and I’m a personal trainer by trade so I set out to start something for the girls in our area who find themselves in the same position.” 

Yvette continues, “so Wave Wahines started as a surf club for girls to provide a fun, non-competitive and affordable route into surf lessons. The problem is surfing can be expensive and lessons can range between £35 and £45 per hour, which is a lot if you’re on a single-household income or have more than one child. In contrast a two-hour surf lesson for an 8-16-year-old through Wave Wahines only costs £10, which removes financial barriers and allows more kids from different backgrounds the chance to surf. And then over the years we grew to run sessions for women too. What started as an encouraging surf school developed into so much more, including working alongside local charity, North Devon Against Domestic Abuse, to provide surf therapy sessions for women in refuge. We received training to deliver surf therapy programs to their women as they come to terms with the trauma associated with domestic and sexual violence.” 

tHE MEANING OF WAHINE

‘Wahine’ is the Maori and Polynesian word for ‘woman’, and in surf culture it has long been used as a celebratory term for girl and young women surfers. Traditionally the Wahine Maori are known as the ‘pillars of communities’ and noted as teachers, leaders and healers. And ancient Hawaiian wahines were revered for both their surfing skills, spiritual roles and close connection and affinity to the landscape and coastal waters. Yvette’s initiative follows this powerful tradition of surf instruction embedded in a wider sense of pride and ambition for young women. And this extends out of the water and across summers and winters, where skateboarding, film nights, swim training, gym sessions and trampolining are added to beach-based activities.

wOMEN AND WAVES

Although the joys of surfing are at the forefront, in forming an all-women activity Wave Wahines is challenging some unjust issues head-on in a future-facing way. Across all aspect of society it is vital that we put lots of energy into the burning issue of full equity and equality of opportunity for all. Girls need a safe environment of other women’s support in an era where trolling, sexual predation, social media shaming and other activities are an unfortunate part of growing up (and often manipulated by men). Girls need to talk to trusted elders about first periods (read ‘Let’s Talk Periods’ on the Wave Wahines blog) and budding sexuality, and about gender identification and identity issues. Then we plug into the wider world of gender flux, ethnicity and colour, disability and opportunity and mental health. Waves Wahines is certainly engaging wholeheartedly with this demand for equity. And their constitution rightly puts inclusion, equity and equality of opportunity at the heart of all activities.

Yvette writes a brilliant blog for the Wave Wahines website exploring so many of these topics. A key theme is about ‘changing the narrative’ in surfing to create new stories and role models. “Wave Wahines began as a way of getting young women into surfing in an environment that was supportive and inclusive,” says Yvette, “and most importantly to show them they don’t have to live up to any images of female surfers to get in a wetsuit and on a board. We work so hard to show girls and young women that we are all different and that’s what makes us special, that’s what makes us powerful, and that’s what makes us us. We are enough. As a community, we should be focusing on empowering the girls of today as they grow into the women of tomorrow by showing them there is another way.” 

And this extends much further, explored in Yvette’s blog feature on ‘The Colour of Surfing’ and her drive to challenge the lack of diversity in surfing. “I am a woman of colour from a diverse community,” says Yvette, “working deeply within the surf culture, but there still remains a lack of diversity and inclusion within surfing governing bodies and talent pathways in water sports. So I find it a very personal and difficult conversation to have with people who keep telling me how inclusive surfing is. At the moment it’s only inclusive if you’re a white male, or white pretty blonde female sadly. So we work super hard to crush those stereotypes. I want to help positive change from the inside and make a brighter future for all surf communities.”

Yvette’s philosophy of spreading the stoke is a great way forward, and her outstanding work has now been recognised internationally as she was recently shortlisted for the Womens Sports Alliance Inspiration of the Year award. “I screamed when I heard who I was shortlisted with,” said Yvette, who is the only grassroots-led nominee in her category, and shares the nomination alongside Simone Biles, record-breaking USA gymnast, and Alice Dearing, the first black woman to swim for Team GB. 

The post Wave Wahines appeared first on The Wave.

The electric surfing 14-year-old goofyfooter Siyanda Hewitt is a rising talent in British waveriding and the newest member of The Wave ambassadors’ team. The power of the ocean runs deep through Siyanda’s family. His name is pronounced ‘Sea-anda’ and his parents Tom and Bulelwa are founders of the groundbreaking charities Surfers Not Street Children (and Umthombo Street Children) that use the power of surfing as a rehabilitation therapy to give kids from troubled backgrounds in South Africa and Mozambique a brighter future. British born Tom has been awarded an MBE for his trailblazing work, and the family are now based in the UK.

Siyanda is true a citizen of the world, raised in the sizzling waves of South Africa and Mozambique, and now a regular at the reefs and beaches of North Devon. The Wave caught up with Siyanda to find out more.

Tell us about the local scene where you surf?

We surf mostly at Croyde. It’s a really good wave, and I surf a lot with close friends Ziggy and Dylan Robinson and Noah Spooner. We all push each other, which makes it really exciting to surf together. It means a lot to me to have a good crew to surf with. I always had that growing up with the Surfers Not Street Children crew in Durban, and being part of a surf community that is strong and supportive is really cool. Me and Dad have also been getting up the coast in the winter to explore, and loving it.

How does surfing in the UK compare to growing up in South Africa?

It’s obviously colder and sometimes greyer here, but I’m so impressed with the quality of the waves in the UK. It’s so wave rich with all the limestone reefs and low-tide beaches. Probably over-all the waves are better and more consistent in South Africa, but I think the lifestyle is better here. Also, I think the schools are better. I’m at Braunton Academy and I really love Geography because you learn about the coastline, the weather and communities. In South Africa schools are really strict. That’s good for discipline, but it can be a stressful way to learn. Whereas here they are a lot more relaxed, which can be worse for discipline, but it definitely makes it a more enjoyable environment to learn in.

What special experiences and feelings does surfing give you that separates it from other activities?

Surfing is all about excitement. That’s what is so special about it – the unpredictability and not knowing what’s coming next as you paddle into the next set wave. And the more you go for it, the better surfing gets. Waves are never the same twice, and that’s what I love so much. With skating or biking you kind of know what’s coming because the park or the course stays exactly the same. But when surfing, every part of every wave is always changing, and you’ve got to work with that, react and make the most out of it. That’s the real rush of surfing, and the better quality the waves, the better the rush.

How did you find surfing at The Wave in Bristol?

Incredible. So stoked. It’s really great being in all the good energy there. Everyone is cheering each ride, and everyone is frothing to do something better each wave. It’s such a good place to surf with friends and push yourself harder and harder. Just the whole environment makes a really positive vibe. You really notice that no one is bringing the feeling of localism or bad energy that you can get at some breaks. I also think it’s so cool the way you can skate to the site from the parking area (as long as it’s not raining!). The whole lead up to arriving gets you so amped. It was good how they thought about this when they designed it.

Who are your surfing role models?

Brazilian Gabriel Medina is just so quick and efficient through every air and radical turn, so I get a lot of inspiration watching him in contests and through his video clips online. I also really like Australian Stephanie Gilmore. Her style is so pure and graceful and smooth, and the way she changes her feet position between turns is really interesting to watch. I got to hang out and surf with her in Mozambique when she was filming The Electric Acid Surfboard Test with Ashton Goggans and a crew from Stab magazine. She also visited the Surfers Not Street Children project there with me and Dad, which was cool. Mikey February is bringing a lot of positive vibes to South African surfing, which is really important as life can be really tough there for so many people. And Mikey’s style is really nice and effortless.

Tell us about your surfboards and some of the sponsors you’re now working with.

I’m pretty tall so I usually ride 6’2”s shaped by a really awesome Italian called Fabio Giacomini from Pike Surf. He has been shaping since 1980 and is based in South Africa and has done a lot of work with famous South African surfboard brands like Hurricane and Spider and Sawyer. Fabio is really great to work with. I also now have support from O’Neill, Dryrobe and The Foam Life, which I’m really stoked about.

Did you enjoy surfing’s Olympic debut?

It was really cool, apart from I missed the finals because I was surfing at The Wave, but watched them on replay. I think it was actually good to be in the ocean for the first ever time in the Olympics. The fact you don’t know what’s going to happen on each wave made it a real interesting contest, where paddling, reading the line-up, and form on the day was so important. In those situations, if you’re on a good run, you can go all the way to the finals. And I’ve been loving watching a lot of the other sports in the Olympics. It really gets you fired up to train hard with what you do and put the hours in. It’s amazing that Teahupo’o will be the surf spot for the Paris Olympics in 2024.

What are your surfing aims over the next few years?

I’m planning to enjoy more contests, here in the UK and hopefully over in South Africa at the Ballito Pro in Willard Beach up the coast from Durban. But I also really want to get back to freesurfing in Mozambique because it’s such a stunning coastline with incredible waves and we’ve been doing work there with Surfers Not Street Children.

Here in the UK I’ve actually been doing a lot of fitness training with Dad, which is helping so much with my surfing. But you do experience a lot of pressure when competing, so I really appreciate the stoke of freesurfing when you can joke around with friends and not have to be too serious. I really want to be a progressive freesurfer, and that can be really important when working with sponsors to standout alongside doing well in competitions. I also realise how lucky I am to have these surfing opportunities with sponsors and the chance to travel. I grew up at the Surfers Not Street Children project in Durban, so all the kids there became my close friends. Some of them have gone through a lot of really difficult times, especially lately, with the pandemic, with poverty and being forced into directions that don’t want to go. That experience has given me a lot of strength and resilience, and also awareness of how amazing the Surfers Not Street Children project is and why we do it. So for sure one of my big ambitions is to continue to promote this work with my family and be central to all the great things it can achieve.

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First and foremost some principles

Safety is our number one focus at all times.

We are building a destination and business that is sustainable for the long term. We want to create a firm bedrock from which we can grow and deliver an incredible experience.

This is a world first and with that comes some challenges. We are learning everything for the first time and while some of the parts that make up The Wave have been done before in different guises, this is a totally unique combination of experiences.

This is also a world first for our technology partners, Wavegarden. This is their first full-scale version which is commercially open. They too are learning how to optimise this incredible feat of engineering.

Our waves

Wavegarden spent many weeks commissioning our waves and there is an incredible variety of waves available for us to use, both now and into the future.

We have settled on a ‘shortlist’ of 18 wave types, which we can produce at the push of a button, from the most gentle beginner waves, right up to some really hefty, barrelling waves. I’ve seen them all and they are truly amazing. The next steps to get these waves ready for public use is to first make sure each one has been properly tested and risk assessed. That is not as simple as it might sound because the bigger waves create currents in other areas that we want to understand fully before putting users in the water. All our waves our safe, we just want to 100% understand the fluid dynamics. This is new to us all and hence why we have been clear about this being our ‘warm up phase’.

We have opened our first weeks with a wave setting that we hoped would deliver all the above and see us through the initial warm-up phase. This hasn’t quite worked out as planned.

Here is why:

The advanced wave

Currently we have the advanced setting programmed to deliver a friendly wave much like a fun sandbar that starts off shoulder high on take off and then transforms into a crouching barrelling/faster inside section.

If I had to describe the sort of surfer that these waves are suited to I’d say:

You need to have been surfing consistently over the last 12 months, ideally at least 2-3 times a month and have been surfing for at least 3-5 years minimum. You should be a strong swimmer, strong paddler and when you go surfing you catch way more waves than you miss. You should be able to control a take off well and be able to slide into a gentle turn both left and right. You don’t necessarily need to be able to turn just yet, just control your speed.

We have chosen a wave which is easy to take off on, with a gentle first section which winds up speed into a faster and small barrelling second section. This wave is so much fun and a great starting point for surfers who have never surfed a reef before. During the session the wave grows in height and becomes a little bigger and faster. We have had hundreds of people feedback that it’s great fun and great for improving fitness. Some felt that they would probably ride it a few times and then would like something ‘next level up’.

We have however also had surfers book into this session who are clearly not ready for this wave yet. They are struggling consistently with the take off and consequently wiping out too much and not getting the most out of the session. They are still ‘intermediates’ rather than ‘advanced surfers’.

Too many times I’ve had surfers paddling out with me saying “I’ve not surfed for years”… that is always a tell-tale sign of a less than ideal session. Clearly these people need a refresher session before tackling this wave. They’re not a beginner – they probably got quite good but are now rusty – but this wave is not for them yet.

Because of this, we cannot be confident that pushing the even bigger waves for the advanced session is the right thing to do, just now. We will get there, but we’re slightly hampered by the need for a surfer to correctly judge their ability and select an area that’s right for them. We’re working through how best to handle this at the moment.

If you have been already, had fun, but are looking for the next level up… keep your eyes peeled as we will be looking to step it up in the near future. Sign up to the newsletter too so you don’t miss announcements. We’ll also be bringing in specific sessions for surfers who’ve got comfortable in our lake and want to start pushing themselves to a higher level. I would however advise people to try the current waves, so they can be sure they have it dialled before they look to tackle anything more advanced..

You will have seen footage of a number or pro surfers trying out the bigger and heavier waves. We haven’t done that to tease you. They have been helping us test and assess the more advanced wave settings, as part of the process that will allow us to introduce some of these waves. We wanted to share the images to show the potential of this amazing technology. It’s also worth noting that much of the footage we have put out is actually of the pros on our current wave setting – and they had a brilliant time!

Tips to help enjoy this wave:

– Make sure you are fit, there are a lot of waves in a session and a lot of paddling back out, even with our flowing channel.

– Nerves. Relax, breathe, we are all learning and you will never be judged in our lake. Keep smiling.

– You need a couple of extra paddling strokes as the take off is gentle, so make sure you are on the wave before popping up. You have loads of time for take off. Slow everything down…

– Listen to the lifeguards. They will give you clear instructions.

– Volume is always your friend… please do use our amazing Skindog surfboards, they have been specifically designed for this wave and even though they have a soft deck normally associated with a “beginner” board, these are epic performance boards for every ability.

How I like to ride this wave:

I like to start a wave with a smile, it helps me relax! I start about one metre from the sidewall and angled about 20 degrees towards the clubhouse. I always take a couple more strokes than normal, but really relaxed. The take off is mellow on this setting which allows me to haul my weight to my feet (I’m not the quickest these days but I’m working on that!). It does also allow the obligatory leash tangle to get sorted out.

If for some reason I miss the wave, I just take a few strokes away from the wall and angle a little more, the wave picks you up but still you have an easy take off.

The first section is soft and allows a slow swooping carve if you stay close to the power pocket of the wave. You then need to get some speed up with a quick pump or get your weight forwards to get around the faster section.

This is the fun bit of the wave as even on the smaller settings, you can tuck in, crouch down and get a sweet little barrel. If you maintain your speed you can get another 2-3 turns in before the wave energy dissipates.

It is then 100+ metre paddle back to the start and about 30 second wait before you go again!

The intermediate wave

We have a number of amazing waves for people who can stand up consistently on the white water on bigger boards, but want to get better.

We started with a fun wave, which we thought would work perfectly for this area. However, feedback from our first visitors is that it isn’t the experience they were hoping for. The last thing we want is for people to leave The Wave feeling disappointed and we do not want people to pay for an experience that doesn’t deliver. We have taken the big decision to remove this wave from our line up and instead run specific sessions purely for the intermediates and beginners using a different wave setting.

This wave will be a gentle green wave that breaks left and right on both sides of the lake. It is sooooo much fun and allows surfers to get used to trimming down the line on a green wave and practice gentle turns. You will need to paddle back to the beginning of the wave again and your fitness will improve rapidly.

We cannot simply introduce this session straight away, as we need to carry out our risk assess process and want to 100% understand how each wave setting performs across the lake .

We have a huge volume of bookings for advanced surfers and the advanced wave disappears on this setting (the wave is pushed over the first reef and works off the second reef). Therefore we will also have to restructure our booking platform and get surfers into the appropriate areas of the lake. This is a big piece of work. We need to rejig some bookings to get this work for everyone. We were anticipating some teething issues and this is probably the biggest we have experienced but ultimately it is totally fixable, but requires a lot of customer service work and will take some time.

The beginner Wave

The beginner waves are doing exactly what we hoped, our instructors are able to host the perfect sessions to get people who have never surfed before up and riding and the feedback has been overwhelmingly positive. The wave is a gentler white water wave with good push to get kids and adults surfing. It’s been great seeing so many new surfers enjoy our waves.

Finally…

As we have said many times, we are in our warm-up phase. Right now we want as much feedback as possible – that’s how we learn, tweak what we are doing in places and make sure we offer a first class experience for surfers of all abilities. We have met so many happy people who have tried our waves for the first time and absolutely loved it. We welcome anyone who wants to come and see what we have built and share in the joy this incredible space creates.

This is just the beginning…

The post Just the beginning… appeared first on The Wave.

We caught up with George Stoy, Founder of George’s Surf School, recently rated as one of the top 10 surf schools in the world, to get his top tips for surfing in the winter months.

Wetsuits do keep you warm

As the old saying goes, ‘There’s no such thing as bad weather, just unsuitable clothes’. Cold-water surfers know that getting a good-fitting wetsuit and the right kit is key. According to Stoy, development in wetsuit technology has been the single biggest game-changer in terms of year-round surfing.

‘The lining on winter wetsuits and their ability to reflect heat and insulate has come on in leaps and bounds over the past few years. At the same time they are more flexible, making it easier for you to move and keep warm.

‘With the right thickness wetsuit, surfing really is accessible all year round. Opt for a 5:3 suit with fleece lining and liquid sealed seams if possible. It is also really key to insulate your head and your extremities – so definitely wear a hood, gloves and boots for winter surfing sessions.’

Don’t get cold before you start

‘It seems pretty obvious, but it’s essential that you’re not cold before you get in the sea – heating up when you’re already chilled is difficult. Do your surf checks before you start getting changed and then aim to change quickly and efficiently.

‘I stand on a mat to keep my feet dry and warm, and keep a hat and coat on for as long as possible. Wind-proofing is important, so pull on everything under your coat or changing robe – wetsuit to waist, boots on and then at the last minute pull up your suit and put your hood on. Get the blood in your hands and if surfing with friends then help each other to pull your gloves on quickly. It’s worth remembering that you should avoid surfing alone, especially in winter. It’s not just safer, but more fun sharing a session with a buddy!

‘If you can get changed inside then that’s great – but don’t stay in the warm for too long or it will be a bigger shock when you go out. Once changed, get out quick!’

When water temperature is low, preparation is everything

One of Stoy’s golden rules is to be prepared.

‘Preparation, for both before and after a surf in winter months, is key. I have a changing bucket ready for my wetsuit and have my clothes piled on the passenger side of the car, in the order I will be putting them on. That means no scrambling around in the cold looking for socks and pants!

‘I tend to choose a spot where I can park fairly close to the surf, to avoid a long walk back when I finish. Wind chill factor means you will lose heat quickly, so you want to keep the time between getting out of the water and getting changed to a minimum.’

How to stay warm in cold water

Listen to your body. ‘Paddling and being active will keep you warm in the sea, but once you get tired and run out of energy then the cold will start to set in. It’s really important to listen to your body, especially in the colder months.

‘Be disciplined – it’s better to have a shorter session and get out before you feel the cold. By the time you’re chilled, it’s too late to do anything about it. Don’t get to the point when your hands or feet are numb as this makes everything difficult, from walking back to the car to trying to get the car keys in the lock.’

Get changed quickly and have a hot drink waiting

‘Once you’re out of the water then speed is of the essence. If you’ve done your prep in advance then getting changed should be quick. Take the top half of your wetsuit off and get a towelling robe on, with a coat over the top. Then boots off, wetsuit off and socks on as quickly as possible. I use ski socks in the winter, which are great for keeping toes toasty. If your hood isn’t integrated in your wetsuit, then keep it on until you’re completely changed.

‘Finally I always bring a flask of a hot drink with me in the winter. Great for warming you up and also makes for a sociable post-surf moment with fellow surfers.’

Cold water surfing is well worth the effort

Follow these tips and surfing is possible – and enjoyable – all year round in the UK, and, says Stoy, it is well worth it.

‘There’s definitely a bit of a badge of honour about surfing in the winter. I get a real thrill from my winter sessions – plus there are less people in the water and quieter line-ups mean more waves! It’s exhilarating to be out there doing something that many people wouldn’t even consider – even if, the truth be told, it really isn’t cold or uncomfortable any more!’

The post Cold water surfing – Can I surf all year round? appeared first on The Wave.

The increased water runoff from local towns can cause rubbish and all kinds of pollutants to pour into the sea after heavy rain or storms. Alongside this, coastal towns can get very busy during the summer months making sewage overflows more likely. This can lead to water contamination that causes a range of health risks, from bugs that cause diarrhoea and vomiting, to ear, nose and throat infections.

A Californian study of more than 600 surfers covering over 10,000 surfing sessions from 2013 to 2015 found surfing in the days after heavy rainfall raised the risk for a wide range of acute illnesses.

Many beaches in Britain have excellent water quality but storms, heavy rain or a sharp increase in the numbers using the beaches can still cause problems. The main rule is to avoid surfing in water when there’s the risk of sewage or other pollution.

Thanks to campaigning organisations like Surfers against Sewage, you can easily find clean surfing beaches in the UK. According to their latest research in 2018, 98.5% of the 625 designated bathing waters around the UK are classified as excellent, good, or sufficient.

Check out the Environment Agency’s bathing water profiles and weather updates on surfing sites such as Magic Seaweed and Surfline.

Top Tip:

As The Wave is an artificial lake, we don’t have these issues. We closely monitor water quality and you can surf every day, even if it rains.

Is it dangerous to swim in lightning?

Hanging out in large expanses of water can be risky when there’s lightning about. Even if the lightning is a few miles away, storms can move very quickly and the lightning can fire in all directions. It’s impossible to predict how close a strike might be and as a surfer you are likely to be the highest object on the water and at risk of being struck.

Top Tip:

At The Wave, if there’s lightning about we ask everyone to leave the water to ensure safety. If your session is cut short when you’ve been in for less than 45 minutes, we will give you a refund based on how long you were in the water.

As roofers, rain can sometimes stop work. We love surfing. For us The Wave will be the perfect place to come when it rains

John Advanced Surfer

The post Is surfing risky in the rain? appeared first on The Wave.

Unlike skiing, not many people wear goggles for surfing, but you can buy a decent pair of prescription goggles, so they’re not to be dismissed. The benefits of wearing goggles are that they help you see more clearly beneath the water as well as above it. They’re also great for bodysurfing where you’re lower in the water and get more water in your face. Surfing goggles can also reduce the possible risk of eye infection for contact lens wearers.

If you’re thinking of buying goggles, the most important advice is to make sure they fit firmly all round and have adjustable straps so you can ensure no water gets in while you’re surfing or bodyboarding. Most models can be supplied with lenses in standard prescription strengths – consult your optician for more information.

“Once I realised I could wear goggles when I surfed I never looked back.”

Sally Memmory Beginner

Contact lenses

The British Contact Lens Association says that you shouldn’t wear contact lenses in the water without tight fitting goggles over the top. They also recommend using daily disposable lenses so you can discard the lenses immediately after you get out of the water. Even though some surfers and bodyboarders do wear lenses with no issues, it’s worth taking precautions to look after your eyes.

Prescription glasses

Slightly different from goggles, prescription glasses and sunglasses with polarised lenses are another option. There are lots of sport eyewear manufacturers who make robust frames that are safe and impact resistant. They come with an elasticated strap to help keep them on and most surfers also wear a hood or a hat to keep the glasses in place. The beauty of this option is you can pick really good lenses and wear them even when you’re not surfing.

Remember!

Whatever option you go for it’s always a good idea to keep a spare pair of glasses or lenses handy just in case you need them.

The post Prescription glasses, sunglasses or goggles for surfing? appeared first on The Wave.